”I’ll be leaving very early tomorrow morning and there’s so much to say about the past 2 months, so many experiences had, connections made and so much learned. It’s weird to think that I’ll be back in my bed within 24 hours, I’ll be sad to leave this amazing place and all these incredible people behind, but I’ll never forget them or my time here.”
The 20th December marks the abolition of slavery. It is a significant event celebrated all around Réunion with a three day annual festival (starting on the 17th) leading up to the anniversary itself. In Saint-Joseph the first night of the festivities was to be opened with a procession – hundreds of people gathered in the city centre as Maloya drummers warmed their animal skin instruments over a wheelbarrow-fire until they reach the right resonance. A young boy in a colourful costume; bright yellow satin trousers and a red strap around his waist, waits patiently, nearby his dance group of all ages are talking quietly. Unlit torches are handed out to the participants, one is shoved into my hand but I pass it onto a friend, wanting to take pictures. The sun passes the horizon and suddenly everything springs into action, the drums start beating, the dancers start to dance, torches are lit. We form a loose line and move down the street, baton twirlers executing moves in time, acrobats travelling with flips and rolls illuminated by a sea of flickering lights. The procession eventually leads us to a large field where a stage has been erected, stalls selling drinks and hot snacks surround the perimeter. A Maloya band is introduced, my friend shouts in my ear to tell me that they are very famous on the island, made evident by the cheers and claps around us as a very small, very old man walks out in front of the microphone, his band in tow. The audience erupt into song with the band, it seems like everyone knows the lyrics. Children and adults dance alike with smiling faces and there’s a general feeling of community and connection around me, I remember feeling privileged to be a part of that moment.
Fin’s Leonardo Da Vinci Mobility : abolition of slavery celebration
My first Christmas away from my family and home was made less lonely by the Mission Locale staff. We celebrated the season together by taking a sea tour along the shore of the island aboard a small fishing boat; the trip was great for the first 15 minutes as we glided under sun along the choppy Indian Ocean with the craggy island coastal cliffs to port and endless waves to starboard, but then my stomach started to churn – I’d never been on such a tiny ship out in the ocean before and waves of nausea washed over me stronger and stronger as we bobbed up and down against the tide, each tiny movement of the current amplified because of the boat’s small size, the bow rising and falling in rhythm on the waves… I stepped onto dry land an hour and a half later, pale-faced and empty-stomached, not a very enjoyable experience!
The Mission Locale Young Committee celebrated together with a beach party involving lots of swimming and home-made food, where I was invited for another celebration with Fred (director of Mission Locale Saint-Jo) who kindly offered me to join him and his family for dinner two days before Christmas. We ate delicious local Chinese/Creole fusion food home-cooked by his wife and played Pictionary (in French), which my team somehow managed to win despite having the English person handicap.
The 24th and 25th themselves were spent with colleague Raphael and family at his brother’s home inland from Saint-Joseph. It is traditional to eat dinner and exchange presents on Christmas Eve in Réunion, and so we feasted on trout roe, roasted goat and sautéed potatoes on the 24th and let off fireworks and lit sparklers after finishing our chocolate cake with coconut ice cream dessert. One of the fireworks misfired and shot towards me as I was taking a long exposure photograph; I dived into the bushes and managed to escape with just muddy knees. We exchanged gifts and left for a neighbourhood Christmas party where dozens of people living in the area had gathered to eat and celebrate the festivities together, a band played covers of western 70’s rock hits mixed in with local music and later the audience participated in Maloya/Sega karaoke with live instrumentals, Raphael even got up on stage to sing a number.
The New Year was celebrated at Grand Anse, a popular beach near the city. Hundreds of Reunnionaise had had the same idea and the shore was crowded with BBQs and marquees, loudspeakers playing tropical music and groups of dancing people. We ran into the sea as the clocks struck midnight and drank champagne in the water as fireworks exploded all around us.
It’s been an exciting final month in Rèunion, I’ve been alone since the departure of Aurélie and have been speaking exclusively in French (with the exception of teaching English lessons and Skype calls home), and as a result my language has improved quickly. I’m finally getting past the point of asking whoever it is I’m speaking with to repeat themselves every sentence and conversation is flowing more smoothly. It’s a rewarding feeling to be able to successfully communicate in a different language, one that makes all the challenges of learning worthwhile.
I’ll be leaving very early tomorrow morning and there’s so much to say about the past 2 months, so many experiences had, connections made and so much learned. It’s weird to think that I’ll be back in my bed within 24 hours, I’ll be sad to leave this amazing place and all these incredible people behind, but I’ll never forget them or my time here.
For more pictures, visit Fin’s Tumblr : http://leonardoreunion.tumblr.com
Leonardo Da Vinci Mobility project part of Gaining Through Training
and supported by ECORYS UK
and the Lifelong Learning Programme
of the European Commission.
